If there's better BBQ in Texas, I haven't found it

We decided that it was time to visit what is deemed by Texas Monthly Magazine as the best BBQ in the state. I'm usually quite dubious about such honors and awards. There is some absolutely amazing barbecue in the Texas Hill Country and surrounds and that is one hell of a bold statement.

We agreed to depart from Mike's at 7:30AM for the drive to Snow's. They are only open on Saturdays, open at 8, and close when they run out, which is apparently always before noon. We headed off on a scenic route that took us out of Wimberley and past more single wides that I've ever seen in a stretch. We rolled into Lexington, TX at about 9:20, and there was a line out the door.
As we made our way up through the line, we kept hearing reports of what they were out of, first ribs, and then pork butt. This torture was exacerbated by Saul who was right in front of us, and seemed completely unfamiliar with commerce on every level. He also had acute spatial and social issues, not to mention the joy he seemed to take in trying to order the last of everything.


When Edmond and I finally made it to the front of the line we were relieved to find that they still had brisket, sausage and chicken. We made our way out to a picnic table adjacent to their pits, and were quickly transported to gastronomic bliss. Simply put, consensus of all four put these three items at the top of what we had experienced, and overall Snow's had admirably earned the distinction of being the best in Texas. The only single item that rivaled and perhaps bettered anything that we had at Snow's was the beef rib at Cooper's in Llano.

Lessons learned:
1. Texas monthly is reputable and accurate at least in matters of BBQ.

2. If you want any selection at all, get to Snow's shortly after 8AM when they open

Baptism of the Stranger in a Strange Land-Luling City Market

It was an early start by any ones standard for barbecue. I picked up Martin just before 10AM on Saturday. Martin, originally from Manchester UK, by way of LA is new to the Hill Country and we took it upon ourselves to show him some of the best bbq that it has to offer. We hit Mike's house to pile into the cherokee, collected Edmond (big-ups for the coffee fix Edmond) and headed off in a most circuitous route to Smitty's in Lockhart. Mike donned his lucky PETA shirt for the event, which added a certain charm to the festivities.

Smitty's has what has become my favorite hallway on the planet to photograph. It is where I once met Smitty himself (photographic evidence withheld). You walk in from the harsh light of day into a dim light with the glow of the open fires on the floor. It is flanked on either side by long wooden benches with an amazing patina with a small counter to eat from. Every several feet there is a chain that hangs down and allegedly used to have a knife at the other end that could be shared in a communal fashion. To the right at the end of the hallway is the pits where your gastronomic adventure begins.

Click on this photo below to see the full version of just what I'm talking about.

Smitty's in my mind has the best sausage, taste-texture-balance all of it there in spades. The end cut pork chops were great as ever, and the brisket stellar as well. I have covered Smitty's previously, so won't go on here, but if you haven't been yet go. After downing our beers and orange soda. It was off to City Market in Luling.

Just a few miles down the road from Lockhart is Luling, but it could have been the other side of Texas. Where Lockhart seems to have sprung from agronomy, Luling was decidedly an oil town and possibly the architecturally least significant Texas town that I had come across. There were yards of delapidated oil equipment and pumps still in service smattered throughout. There was a smell of oil in the air that was unistakable. Some of the working pumps had been dressed up with silhouettes of Shamu diving, or kids on teeter totters. Other than City Market BBQ, Luling's claim to fame is the Watermelon Spitting Championship, and Thump Queen. There were a number of corrigated steel shacks that served Mexican food that looked quite promising, but they would have to wait for another day. We were on a mission........


We rolled into downtown Luling for our second lunch. Mike had either cheated or scouted the previous day depending on your perspective. He claimed to be stuck by a train and left on option in the matter. At any rate we feasted on Ribs, Sausage and Brisket. The Pork Ribs were the best that I've had thus far in Texas, where other cuts are king. The sauce at Luling was also an absolute standout. A very interesting balance of spicy, savory, smoke and sweetness. A contrast to Smitty's that offers (and needs) none. The brisket was good, although not as good as Smitty's, it was a solid representation. The sausage was of a smoother consistency than that at Smitty's and a milder but still great taste. Absolutely worth the drive from Wimberley, but possibly not from Lockhart if you get my meaning.

Reverand Bubba's triumphant return from the dark continent and more Hill Country shenanigans

As hurricane Ike threatened to destroy Houston, Mike Edmond and I made our way to Llano and Blanco for bbq, beer and croquet. It seemed like another great Trifecta.

Our first destination was Cooper's barbecue in Llano. We pulled up at exactly the right time, they had just loaded up for the lunch crowd and we were among the first there. By the time we had made it down the gauntlet a line was forming around the corner of the building. As it was a Friday there were many more locals than tourista filth like ourselves.

The place had the right smell to it, and these folks clearly knew what they were doing when it comes to searing and smoking the flesh of various and sundry hill country mammals and birds.

During our lunch we clearly asserted our place at the top of the foodchain, and partook of:
Beef Ribs
Brisket
Cabrito
Chicken
Pork Loin
Sirloin
Jalapeno Sausage
All of it was amazing, succulent and deserving of the accolades that have been bestowed upon them by others. Even though it was a larger operation than any of the other places visited, everyone was attentive, and clearly put pride in their work. The sauce was different than those that we had encountered on previous outings. They also opt for the choice of having your meet dipped in the sauce at the end of the pit instead of offering it on the side or at the table. Simple and exceptional!

The Beef Ribs were far and away the best that I have ever had, and everyone's pick for the #1 spot that day. It was one of the best servings of beef that I have ever had. It clung to the bone and had the taste of marrow that complimented the mesquite smoke. This is the only thing that we went back to for seconds.

Edmond and I gave #2 to the Chicken. It was half a chicken that tasted as if it had been fed nothing but butter for the last weeks of its' life. It was dusted in Cooper's rub and perfectly grilled. Moist and just the right balance of moisture, spice and mesquite goodness. The rest was all great, and is down to personal preference. It should be mentioned that the Sirloin was shockingly moist and a perfect medium. It was only my second time having cabrito, so I don't feel that I'm in a position to comment further than to say I liked it and would order it again from them without hesitation.

On our way to Blanco we decided to stop off in Johnson City (not named for LBJ, but his uncle) where we saw LBJ's boyhood home had an ice cream cone and got directions to the Benini Sculpture Ranch.

The Sculpture Ranch is one of the cultural jewels of the Hill Country and absolutely worth a visit. They don't only have over a hundred acres of land with sundry different styles of sculpture, they also have a gallery featuring Benini's paintings as well as a rotating group of other artists. Not only that they without fail offer a free cup of espresso to enjoy while you take in the art. Pretty civilized ladies and gentlemen. They don't take donations and they don't charge admission either.

After getting our quota of culture for the day we headed to Blanco for a tour of the Blanco Brewery. Every Friday they open their tasting room from 2-5 and give a brewery tour at 4. They generously poured a number of their selections for us to try, but it soon became clear that we needed to get the hell out of there as it was far too crowded and the rooms average IQ dropped significantly with the new arrival of each guest. If I heard 'like' to describe something actual I would be tempted to throw elbows. We asked the hostess where in town we could acquire their Sisyphus Barley Wine, and hit the road. About a half mile down the road we picked up our Barley Wine.

Mike then directed us to what was absolutely one of the most absurd and unexpected sights that I have seen in the Hill Country. A world class croquet court, complete with spectator stand. This is right in the town square and is behind a 10' wall to keep the riff-raff out. It could have been straight out of Alice in Wonderland. We made it to a restaurant across the square and when I inquired if they got much trouble from the croquet crowd, I just got a confused look. It quickly became clear that lifetime residents had no idea whatsoever what transpired on the other side of the walls in the center of their own town. Clearly a class-divide. We had a couple more beers before heading home to Wimberley.

Serious Coffee and Organic BBQ, The Sun can wait

I had planned on attending a workshop this past Saturday with Marc at Hubbert's Peak on designing a solar system, or a solar power system, I'm unclear which. At any rate things got delayed, and I ended up carting furniture, loading my pickup and wondering what the universe had in mind. Wimberley's market days proved to not be a dissapointment in the least as a consolation prize, and I ended up with an amazing cactus and a phenomenal plan B.

We decided to hit Austin maybe take some pictures, and find something to eat. We decided to hit Ruby's BBQ as our first stop. The placed reeked of intrigue and seemed to have been decorated in 1973, and left to rot since then, but in a slightly manufactured way somehow. The smell was right, and we plodded on and took the cashiers suggestion of a brisket plate with beans and slaw and a local beer.

Ruby's had the best beans I've ever had with a hint of habanero, the cole slaw had curry in it, and I couldn't decide at the bottom of the bowl if it was intriguing or godawful, on further pondering I choose the former and would be forced to order them again if for no other reason than to make a final judgement. The brisket was a bit dry but flavorful, and a distant cousin to any of the greatness experienced in Lockhart a few weeks previous.

After a few passes, we finally found a parking place near enough to JP's to make a run at it. JP's is one of the few homes of the $12k plus Clover Coffee Machine. It allegedly makes the finest cup of joe that can be had. Apparently it was a little too good, as Star*ucks has bought the company, refuses to sell to any other coffee shops, and service is apparently not quite as easy as it used to be.
http://www.jpsjava.com/
http://cloverequipment.com/home/

We both opted for a cup of Ethiopian. It was absolutely sublime and the most complex flavors that I have ever experienced with almost no bitterness at all! Absolutely without a doubt the best cup of coffee that has ever passed these lips

Best Chinese Restaurant is a Grocery Store

Made it to Asian Market not too long ago for some of the best Chinese food that I've had outside of San Francisco or Sydney. It is somewhere in North Austin, and when we walked in I knew that things were promising as we were the only anglos in the place. Also as a small nod to the non-asian population, as a secondary gesture most items are also listed in English (but not all!).
http://www.asiamarketaustin.com/

Mike had been here before, and handled the majority of the ordering. We had the Cumin Beef, Eggplant with Pork, Sesame Chicken and Crispy Duck. Far and away the best Chinese food that I've had in the Austin area. Also if you make the journey, make sure to hit the Indian food market that is located in the same plaza.
http://www.apnabazaaraustin.com/

The Best in Low Brow Dining

After months of bragging about the dish that I created, I was finally able to share what I claim to be a true culinary treat. Not only is it tasty, it's no doubt quite healthy. One afternoon while pondering my order at Inoz here in Wimberley, I couldn't decide whether to go with their nachos, or a burger with their curly fries, the only edible fries in Wimberley at the time. It was then that I jokingly asked the waiter if I could have their nachos with curly fries instead of corn chips. Before I could look up from my menu he had taken off to the kitchen to inquire with the chef. He returned and at that moment the dish was born.

It weighs close to 3 pounds, and is absolutely delicious! The aftermath however is a combination of the worst Thanksgiving with the unsettling feeling that you have a softball made of lead that is lodged in your stomach. It hasn't quite made it on to the menu, but I can't recommend highly enough asking for this treat. It is certainly enough to feed 3, but I suggest try to eat one on your own.

Looking forward to trying D'Blazios frito pie pizza later this month.

A gastronomic return to the land of my people

We packed up and headed back to Cincinnati for a few days of indulgence in the culinary offerings of the Queen City as it was known in my youth, Porkopolis 80 years before then, and currently the Natti. Either way, the visit was punctuated by visits to cultural landmarks and museums as well as restaurants and familial haunts.

One of the first food items that we need upon our return is Camp Washington Chili. It is one of the most amazing places on earth with a varied menagerie from all social classes. Phenomenal spot for people watching, as well as the best iteration of Cincy Chili that I have encountered. most go for Skyline Chili, however this pales in comparison. In addition to 3-5 ways (chili, spaghetti, onions, cheese, beans), they have what is referred by father as the best turkey club ever.

After a bit of back and forth Cait wrangled together the order consisting of 15 cheese coneys with mustard and onions, 2 coneys with cheese, 2 three-ways, 3 turkey clubs and 2 orders of chili cheese fries. After being placed on hold repeatedly, and then having them refuse to read back the order to confirm, Cait was dubious about how close to what was intended would actually be delivered. Once my dad and I got there however, and I saw that the woman behind the counter had a 3" script tattoo that read 'KEITH' in old english script on her neck, I knew all would be well. I mean hell, I'm sure that Keith learned her proper, and as expected the order was spot on. The coneys surpassed all expectation and recollections. This will always be my first stop upon my return.

My father has become a true conisseur of the greasy spoon, and when the conversation turned to cheeseburgers he knew just the spot. A nondescript joint just the other side of the river in Covington Kentucky that has been around since 1939. It was up the hill, and away from the business district. It was an amazing example of simple food done great. Chip manned the small flatiron grill, and about 10 minutes after arrival we were treated to a simple feast of burgers, Hussman potato chips, and a coke each. 3 of us got out of there for $14, almost unheard of in this day and age, and one of the more memorable meals of the trip.

Pizza was a mixed bag, 2 of my favorites Pommodori's which specializes in wood fired pizzas, and Adriaticos that had done a thick crust garlic infused gem. Well, Pommodori's despite the sign reading 'Cincinnati's Best Pizza' had slipped considerably. There was none of the blistering of the crust that wood fired pizzas are known for, and I was told that Adriaticos had slipped so far that it was not worth pursuing, and that I was better off with my memories unspoiled on this front. The upside came from Dewey's, a relative newcomer, but certainly a welcome addition to the regimen.

One of my earliest childhood memories is of shopping at Findlay Market. It has certainly had it's share of ups and downs over the last few decades, and has made an amazing recovery. There are tons of organic farmers with stalls, as well as surrounding shops carrying Asian spices, African wares, meats and cheeses. It draws all races and income stratas and they not only get along, they actually interact with each other. Hell even the old black blues musician played a Loggins and Messina song in his set. Certainly something for everyone.

The other childhood food shopping experience that I was able to faithfully relive was Avril's meat market in the heart of downtown. A Cincinnati institution since 1894, serving up some of the most amazing German Sausages that I have ever had. My grandfather used to stop by there every Friday to pick up the fixins for the Sunday cookout. Although the bratwurst are stunning, it's the hot mets or metwurst that I always enjoyed, preferably on their salt rye with the homemade horseradish cheddar and brown mustard.

We made it to the old art deco Union Terminal train station that has been successfully transformed into the Cincinnati Museum Center which houses 3 museums, a reference library, the historical society, and an imax theater. Oh yeah, it's still an Amtrak station as well. There are a series of mosaic murals that are absolutely stunning, and for some time it was the world's largest free standing half-dome.

Next on tap was a field trip to Pyramid Hill sculpture garden, about 20 minutes outside of Cincinnati. A truly amazing collection that should be on anyones list of must sees if visiting the area.